When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.
This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family completely astonished.
“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.
It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.
Elara is a writer and life coach passionate about sharing stories of transformation and resilience.
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